We lived in a small town. We had a good life. A good home, a great set of friends, a decent school for our kid. We knew the names of our neighbours, their kids and their dogs. We even socialised on weekdays and thought nothing much of it. But not being the kind of people who can leave well enough alone, we packed up and moved to Bombay.
Or so we thought.
After looking through a multitude of houses, some with bedrooms smaller than the bathrooms in our old house, we finally settled on a house that didn’t cramp our style and us much. We were quite happy, even though the rent was seven times what we paid earlier, we had a good home, and after all, this was Mumbai. We knew what we were getting into.
A month after we settled down I started my new job. The first question anyone asked me here was, ‘So, where do you live?’. The reactions I got to my address were varied and weird. “Ah the ‘burbs!” said Tina. “I’m a pucca townie. I hear that area has come up quite well, though I have never been to that part of town.”
“Townie?” I asked. “From Town, you know.” She said as if that explained anything. Now the area where I stay has been around for ever, so I thought maybe this gal hasn’t been around much. I tried to look up ‘Town’ on the escorts map book, my bible to Mumbai, but I drew a blank. Jayanti, another ‘burbie’ explained the difference. ‘Town’, it seems, is the island of south Bombay (that part of town is yet to accept that it is now called Mumbai). The rest of Mumbai is the suburbs (hence burbie) which townies do not consider Bombay. Suburbs up to Bandra have been allowed the privilege of being included in Bombay, albeit condescendingly.
‘Ah’ I thought ‘I get it.’ And we thought we were moving to Bombay! Silly us.
That was just the tip of the iceberg.
The suburbs are further divided into Western and Central. Western and Central are the two suburban railway routes in the city. The westerners are somehow superior to the central guys. Why? Don’t have a clue. I thought it was because of the proximity to the sea, but one look at the map shows that is not so. It just is. Again, that is not all. Each suburb is further divided into East and West, depending on which side of the aforementioned railway track you are on. The West part of any suburb is considered superior to its eastern counterpart, regardless of whether you reside in the Western suburbs or Central. Phew! And I haven’t even told you about the harbour line, Navi Mumbai, Thane and Kalyan yet.
Having lived in Delhi before I thought I could identify an elitist slight when one was thrown at me, but Mumbai is sharper and more subtle. Some of the other reactions to my address were;
“I’ve heard that they have malls and stuff out there now”
The key words being ‘they’ which implies ‘not us’, and ‘I’ve heard’ which means ‘I haven’t seen, since I do not venture in the wilderness there’
‘Thats really far’ is another one. Far from where is not specified. It’s just far.
Allusions to new development in your area are also to be considered as insults, because in the areas that really matter, there is no space for any new developments.
Evidence of the grand divide can be seen even in newspapers. An article on ‘what to do this weekend’ in the TOI said ‘...and if you are the adventurous kind, willing to go as far as Powai....’ ???. Again, far from where? That was the event closest to where I live, but I was obviously not the one they were talking to.
I think I have finally begun to get the code of the pin code. So if you happen to ask me where I live and begin to hem and haw, you know its because I do not know your pin code yet.
I think I have finally begun to get the code of the pin code. So if you happen to ask me where I live and begin to hem and haw, you know its because I do not know your pin code yet.
Originally posted at http://rivr.sulekha.com/coded-by-the-pin-code-a-beginner-s-guide-to-the-mumbai-caste-system_329115_blog
The author has since moved to Bangalore and in the year and half she's been here, she has barely met any natural born Bangaloreans. A similar post about her new town of residence will have to wait.